36 Hours in ChicagoBy Barbara Kingstone
Chicago may be windy, but it blows in mega culture. Thirty six hours in a thriving metropolis. By Barbara Kingstone In a city that isn’t full of itself, Chicago, the Windy City, really has reason to be boastful with it’s propensity for fine architecture, major art museums and fine dining to please any gourmet’s palate. Even with seasons that somersault from freezing frostbit winters to stifling humid summers, on this extremely hot mid summer day, there’s a mysterious breeze that issues forth explanations about the wind from all the locals -the mega-skyscrapers create a wind tunnel, the wind comes off Lake Michigan - are but a few. Whatever the more scientifically based reasons, this Midwest city that once had a reputation for mobsters and meat packing, is one of the friendliest place where jazz is hot, hot, hot. Although I had intended to write about 24 hours in this gateway of commerce and culture, once I started to explore, the reality is that Chicago needs a weekend and is in fact, the perfect get-away just over 1 hour flight from Toronto. After an elevator ride to the 5th floor marble lobby from the large lion statue bookends at the street level entrance, I reach the reception area of The Peninsula Hotel. Who would want to leave this bedroom aerie, among the largest in the city? I play around with the various wall and bedside computerized panels exclusive to and created for ‘The Pen’ as it is adoringly called. Twenty-seven inch flat screen TV and radio controls, master lights, climate control, privacy button, housekeeping notification, clock and alarm and nightlight for reading. I particularly like the panel at the door, just above the box for shoe shines and daily paper, which gives current outdoor temperature and humidity. Then there’s a panel for the small TV in the large marble bathroom, where the tub is set just below the window giving way to a panoramic view. It may be a dying art but haute couture is alive and well at the 33 year old establishment, Mira Couture, where shelves are filled with sparkling fabrics in an array of colours and racks have gowns, especially heavy in the wedding mode. Now that I’ve seen the serious side of fashion, I go directly to Ikram, where the trendy, edgy European designers have a huge presence in this retro designed store. Just from their window display, Elements makes a statement. Home accessories, super tabletop ware hand thrown in Italy, jewellery from Los Angeles, lamps from Spain and France plus luxury unique leather goods. A familiar name appears above a minimalist designed store. Marlowe, whose home base is in Toronto, is a major success story in Chicago with quality cashmere items designed and made in Italy. Perhaps one of the best known shops with longevity is Ultimo featuring an impressive list of international designers in sleek surroundings. Oh, if only the salesperson, Roger, could be packed with my luggage! The biggest surprise is the kitsch-iest. American Girl Place is a ‘happening’ and one of the busiest spots in town and the only one in the world. It caters to females from 3 years old and up. Here, the plethora of dolls have outfits available in sizes for their ‘mommies’ and a doll hair salon for the definitely un-Barbie like dolls who look and feel like really babies. There is AGP magazines, videos and books are all related to age groups. And the black and white striped tea room with a waiting list as long as my arm, each day, is like the Mad Hatter’s party. Dolls are loaned from a shelve during the tea time and these cute toys are then set up at the table in a tiny seat. Under the red flowered light fixtures, small polka dot ‘topic’ boxes hold questions for discussion between mom and daughter. Examples-what would you do if you get lost in a big crowd?..what person in your family history would you most like to meet? I shove my way through the wave of red shopping bags wanting the experience of their tea. I leave holding my black and white dot hair scrunchy, the napkin ring, a gift to all girls who take tea. Worried about missing the Chicago Architecture Foundation River Cruise, I hail a cab and have a friendly, chatty driver who gets me to the pier on time-3PM. I opt to seat inside the First Lady since it’s over 30c and the sun is beaming down with no umbrellas or canopy for protection. The two custom designed -1920 -styled yachts (the other is Little Lady) allow unobstructed views of the architectural wonders. And the sound system is terrific that where ever you sit you can hear and learn about the richest architecture in North America. Right off, we pass the Wrigley Building, and soon we’re under the first of several bridges. We float passed the Chicago Tribune, Leo Burnett, RR Donnelley buildings and continue on the greenish coloured Chicago River navigated by Captain Charles. The concrete river bank walls are decorated with flowers and significant public sculptures. Montgomery Ward, a mammoth edifice, is now empty since their bankruptcy, colonnaded buildings under construction are potentially grand, a pretty set of ginkgo trees line one side, then there’s Lyric Opera Center, majestic Art Deco Marshall Field, Lake Point Tower, a huge curved brown glassed condo sits next to a grand marina. Over 50 historic sites include the work of Mies van der Rohe becomes a most worth while 90 minute for any tourist. Since the Buckingham Memorial Fountain in Grant Park, one of the largest in the world, is a few minute walk. Constructed in Georgia pink marble, the popular spouting sea horses attracts giggling kids and adults tossing coins into the water. Although the annual Taste of Chicago is somewhat quirky with thousands of people who come for the traditional, mainly fried food with odors that permeate the air, the park shows the city’s interest in green spaces. Not far from here the world acclaimed Art Institute of Chicago is another ‘must do’ with a renowned collection from impressionists, post impressionists, surrealists plus many more schools of art. Also furniture, jewellery, sculptures. Known for its great dining, and important to booked ahead, is the 5 year old, 4 star rated Blackbird Restaurant. The white and ecru décor, floor to ceiling windows, although stark, is inviting. The four partners are seriously focused on their cuisine and wine cellar. The menu is concise with 10 appetizers and 10 entrees. Even at the ridiculously early hour, 6.30, there are only two seats left and they’re mine. The signature pea soup, crispy suckling pig with red grapes, charcuterie plate, grilled king salmon with almonds, breast of quail and seared foie gras, grilled buck wheat polenta with spring veggies and agridolce, are some of the offerings. The wine menu, small tome, is categorized by grape variety.. Meanwhile back at The Peninsula, The Lobby’s jazz trio is still performing as I literally have to push into one of the city’s most popular after 10PM meeting spots, The Bar. Fashionistas of every age, are in top form and it’s fun to mingle with the friendly, chatty locals. First thing, next morning it’s time to indulge at The Spa at ‘The Pen’ with their glassed in 25 foot high ceiling half Olympic length pool. Even though my sessions are each only ½ hour, the total affect lasts for days. Treatments are done by certified, trained aestheticians. June Jacobs Skin Care Collection from New York is exclusives to The Spa. Their aroma is terrific with ingredients of herbs, plant extracts and botanicals found around the world. Before ending this weekend, I visit a once down at the mouth, now an up and coming neighbourhood, Wicker Park. The year old Milk & Honey Café is ‘the’ place for brunch or a mid day snack where, from the wide sidewalk outdoor terrace, I watch the daily regulars who zip up on their motor scooters or stop for a ‘nosh’ while walking the dog. As they say, time flies when you’re having a great time and Chicago offers more than most. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx The Peninsula Chicago 108 East Superior St 312 337 2888 Email: pch@peninsula.com
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