Dynamic Dubai and Abu Dhabi

East meets West in an exciting mix

By Barbara Kingstone

My seatmate and I simultaneously commented on the quality of the delicious meal on Etihad Airways. After our Mezze appetizers, he had chosen the ricotta and spinach ravioli, and I, the Oriental stir-fried beef and rice. That conversation led into one about the five days I had just spent in the United Arab Emirates. "How did you like it?" he asked.

"Abu Dhabi and Dubai were two of the most dynamic cities I’ve visited in years," I answered. "I was overwhelmed by the sheer spectacle of both." He understood my enthusiasm, adding, "Tourists can enjoy traditional camel safaris in the desert, shop duty-free at the most upscle malls in the world, and relax on world class-white sandy beaches in a land where the crime rate is zero."

What piqued my curiosity was that he seemed so in touch with the Emirates even though he had been living in Ottawa for more than six years. Ah, a clue--why Ottawa- city of winter, mountains of snow and government.

"And what do you do?" I asked with formal politeness knowing innately that with all this information and knowledge, this very agreeable man, Hassan M.O. Al Suwaidi, was not just another businessman. Indeed, he turned out to be the Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates in Ottawa.

My only complaint, which I relayed to His Excellency, was that I needed more time to explore the land where oil begat unfathomable riches. After the oil discovery in 1930s, a dynamic economy was born. Outrageous fortunes were made.

As a tourist destination for those who had been to Europe, Africa, India, Asia, Australia and South America, the Emirates is the next thrust. Although the media sees the area as a mercurial part of the world, the Emirates is a safe region and fast becoming a leading tourist destination. For instance, Dubai has approximately 5.4 million visitors annually. Most arrive from Britain, Russia and Germany to take advantage of the beaches, sunshine and tax-free shopping.

Abu Dhabi, the capital city of the seven Emirates and the hub for Etihad Airways, became my first destination. Leaving the more thriving Dubai until the last, I wanted to be able to compare the two. Abu Dhabi, once a humble pearl center, is a cosmopolitan yet unhurried city eager to catch up with its not-as-rich but visibly more opulent, commercial rival. Dubai officials state firmly, however, that they don't want to go the route of Dubai. The more I learned, the more questionable that position seemed.

I admit I modified my thinking about Abu Dhabi as calm and less flashy, as my limo passed detached single homes the size of small hotels. I gulped when I arrived at the government-owned Emirates Palace Hotel located on 85 hectares of gardens, the largest and probably most costly hotel in the world. Greeting me under graceful hand-carved Islamic arches, were two glorious young people wearing gold and black brocade coats who looked as though they had been sent from central casting. With only 302 deluxe rooms and 92 overwhelmingly large suites and a staff of about 2,000, every room has a dedicated valet. The hotel features a staggering 144 domes, the largest of which is 42 meters wide and finished with silver and gold mosaic tiles. Inlaid marble floors the color of the UAE’s different sands shades, helicopter pads and landscaped pools add more luxurious touches. Good walking shoes are needed to cover the length of the palace which, from end to end, measures a kilometre, while a walk around the building is approximately 2.5 km. The hotel’s target guests include sheiks and heads of states from countries worldwide who congregate for massive conferences.

What an introduction to a very oil-rich country! I was loath to leave my elegant room for sightseeing. City roads are maintained in perfect condition and remain relatively traffic-free. I made my way to the port to see the wooden dhows bobbing on the water and the fish market alive with local color. The renowned Gold Souk market was a bit of a disappointment since there was a sameness to every shop. The spectacular mosque in the process of being built, however, made up for that disappointment with its grandness. It is the fourth-largest in the world. Time was not on my side, since I had plans to go to Al Ain, the Garden City, blessed with substantial groundwater resources. It’s an oasis in the desert dating back to the 4th century BC. About an hour from Abu Dhabi, Al Ain is more affordable and the population of 200,000 plans a future in tourism rather than oil.

A stop at the daily camel market proved an exotic though malodorous venue for a Westerner. Camels were being pushed and pulled, with some milked for their newly born. Locals haggled about the purchase price of the humped animals. Not only are they used as meat as well as transportation; if one catches the eye of a camel-racing impresario, it may soon appear on the racetrack. Although the camel races, as well as horse races, are run in front of spectators, there is no betting. The weekly camel races lead up to a big social event between October and April, held at Al Wathba.

Even though the Islamic religion prohibits alcohol, liquor stores do exist and liquor is available in hotels and restaurants. As one official said, "Just don’t create any problems." The question of women’s rights frequently arises. From what I observed, women have freedom to work, go to school, and choose their wardrobe. Many still opt to cover themselves completely by wearing the abaya, a black coat, over their clothing. "Camel Gucci" is an expression I learned about abayas that hide major European designer togs underneath.

By 3:00 pm, the sun was beating down on our small group, which had traveled to an area in the Arabian Desert for the increasingly popular but bizarre sport of Dune Bashing. A conservative guess about the temperature would be about 35 degrees Celsius. While waiting, we took shelter in Bedouin-inspired tents. This tourist enterprise sweeps you away from the glitz of the cities back to tribal times. While our meal was being prepared on a traditional stove, a few waited for a turn to climb upon a very tall camel for a very short ride. The camel snorted and spit and was most disagreeable. Who could blame him? Everybody's allowed a bad day. Just beyond, on a tranquil sandy slope, some young people tried their skills at sand skiing, without much luck.

The necessary desert-bashing vehicles finally arrived. We five innocents took our seats, buckled up and were soon in full throttle, roller-coasting at kamikaze speed over the high and amazingly peaceful-looking dunes. The sepia-colored playground for the ride is certainly an adrenaline trigger. Stopping for the important photo opportunity, the sand that slid through my fingers and seemed so harmless had us shrieking again as we almost became airborne. After dinner, the ground lights were extinguished. I lay on my back looking at a blanket of stars. The rest of the world must have gone starless that night, since they all seemed to be right there above me.

Ah, Dubai, The City of Gold. Could it live up to all the hype? The metropolis sits off the Arabian Gulf surrounded by water. In fact, it’s often called the Venice of the Gulf. Imagine, 5 years ago there were approximately 250,000 in habitants. Now the population is 1.5 million (85% are expatriates or ‘expats’ as they are referred to) and it’s predicted that by 2010 that figure will double.

Within seconds of reaching the city, one is aware of both the building boom and the heat--easily 30 degrees Celsius, and this is winter. Summer temperatures can reach the high 40s, occasionally hitting 50 Celsius. This could be the reason t I saw very few people walking.

I expected to see a desert. Instead I’m stunned by the very wide water thoroughfare called called "the Creek" which divides Dubai into Deira Dubai and Bur Dubai, areas in the city.

Skyscrapers compete with cranes in scenario that might be dubbed Hong Kong meets Singapore. New neighborhoods spurt up like the many shooting fountains that exists around the city. The Burj (tower in Arabic) Dubai, when it’s completed in 2008, will be the world’s tallest building and is located among other smaller but new offices and residences. With all these looming structures, an estimated 18% of the world’s cranes are here. The oldest building is less than ten years old. Expatriates live it up with special indulgences for example, high salaries and the no tax policy pay for the fancy cars, swell condos and designer clothes clothes. It’s a bewildering oasis of plenty. I just wanted someone to shout out, “my palace is your palace”. However, life for those few days, had a cornucopia of plenty so this scribe can’t complain.

Dubai is a major multi-cultural city that mixes 185 nationalities. As I sit in the lobby, there’s a clutter of voices in many different languages. It feels as though the world has descended on Dubai and in robot-like style, everyone is carrying a briefcase.

Obviously, Dubai has delivered the good and with their filled coffers, will continue to do international business. With tourism growing at a rapid rate, the Dubai government is building one of the largest airports in the world. Jebel Ali Airport City is a project that will cover 140 square kilometers. Not just an airport, there will be several smaller cities within the complex but the emphasize is on catering to the financial, industrial and tourism industries.

After checking into the five-star Fairmont Hotel, I find my guide to be Sam, a 37-year-old Egyptian-born Canadian who moved here two years ago. Sam had come for a holiday, considered the business opportunities and never left. His consulting firm is constantly changing and expanding. I was not surprised when he pulled up to the hotel’s entrance wearing a casual chic Italian outfit plus designer sunglasses and driving a red convertible BMW sports car. Expensive cars on the roads are in the majority. Old is a two-year-old vehicle and clean is a government edict. If I can’t have oil, give me the Mercedes Benz and BMW dealership, I mused.

Dubai, once a pearl center, was established in 1830 by the Maktoum family. The demise of the industry came after the discovery of producing cultured pearls. Great thought was then given to Dubai’s future. Oil was discovered in 1966, enabling the transition to commerce and trade. Dubai's oil reserve, however, was not as endless as some of its Emirate siblings.

Under the vision of the late Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum, the flat barren plains gave way to economics, which meant erecting banks, hotels, condos and malls--each outdoing the last. It’s so easy to do business here," Sam told me. "If it’s legal and ethical, it can be done on the turn of a dime. And where else in the world don’t you have to pay taxes? Dubai is a city of money and business." It’s a mind-twister to realize that Abu Dhabi is under two hours away by car. It might as well be another planet.

"Dubai is all about networking," Sam said early one morning. We head to his Mumbai-born tailor in a small shop in the old Mina Quarters. Jewelry, electronics, clothing, furniture and just about every ethnic item can be purchased much cheaper in the Quarters than in the grand malls. Bargaining is expected. Not to be missed is the Spice Souk where the aroma of cinnamon and incense mixes with dried fruit and cloves.

"Too bad I can’t show this to you from the air," said Sam, pointing to The Palm development. Here are the three largest man-made islands in the world, in the shape of a date palm tree. The area is bigger than Manhattan and the "trunk" section has already attracted Donald Trump’s enterprise. A crown with 41 fronds and surrounding crescent islands act as water breakers. When completed by the end of 2009, there will be 8,000 villas, shopping malls, sports facilities, marinas, hotels and clubs—virtually a city within a city. The same company -- Al Nakheel Properties -- that brought this concept to the world is also building The World Islands, another collection of man-made islands. These will be in the shape of the continents of the world. If you intend to purchase one of the 250-300 islands, bring a large wallet. The purchase price in this dream community is astronomic but the would have to have the mandatory two Rolls Royce’s parked in the driveway. Just ask rocker, Rod Stewart. He’s just bought one of the islands and surely there’ll be a Hummer or two at his front door.

Every businessperson’s first remark emphasizes that taxation is nil, crime is zero, schooling and hospital clinics are free and shopping is a sport. But if there is any wrongdoing by an expatriate, there are no long court cases--it’s immediate deportation. For local prison inmates, however, Dubai police started the Art of Living program to teach prisoners yoga to relieve stress and change points of view.

Usually the next topic to arise is the traffic. Sam mentioned the constant work-week gridlock. This was the Sabbath and the streets were more maneuverable. Traffic crunch materialized the next day and might be compared only to higway 401 on a Friday afternoon in mid summer.

Due to the desert heat, the workday starts early, as does the traffic. In each car, there is a mandatory built-in speed beep, which goes on automatically when you pass 120 km an hour. It didn’t have a chance to go off in the bumper-to-bumper traffic. One clever move instituted was to prohibit large delivery trucks on city streets and use small vans instead.

Because the city is spread out, it is advisable to make a plan, decide on a destination and stay within the area. I yearned to see the malls renowned for their stocks of electronics, optics, jewelry, home furnishings, clothing and restaurants. They, too, are a destination experience, many staying open until midnight.

Besides all the boutiques, Gucci, Fendi, Chanel, Dior etc., etc., Emirates Mall, has a unique, large glassed-in area, climate-controlled which contains, unbelievably, a busy, snowy ski hill. The line-up on the slopes reminded me of my days in Canada’s Laurentians. Après-skiers and onlookers queue up three deep to see this incredible spectacle, while those brave souls already inside donned warm rented parkas and all necessary ski equipment. Just imagine Mount Tremblant or Whistler Mountain under a dome for 12 months a year. And in Dubai, it’s possible and outside, it could easily hit 50 Celsius.

Our stomachs finally got in touch with our brains. We were hungry, and the warm weather was perfect for al fresco dining. Sam decided on the posh Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club. We ate lightly-- me, a terrific tuna salad and Sam, some a chicken Caesar salad. Dinner would constitute our grand meal. Even here, far from slim obsessed North America, lithe bodies are praised. As I looked over at the other table, one filled with four young women, they too, were nibbling on salads.

Palmed and very private, the long drive to the restaurant features a serious yacht-filled marina and a golf course. Yes, there is golf in this desert. Pros are impressed with the excellent designs of the four courses in and about the city, enough so that Tiger Woods was part of the championship games. Dubai is the pioneer of the sport in the middle east and Emirates Golf Club hosts the annual Desert Classic Tournament. As a non golfer, the greenery with sculptured shrubs and blooming flowers surrounding the grass 18 hole club certainly got me re-thinking the game. Another club is the Dubai Golf and Racing Club, who realizing the popularity of golf, is expanding their already immaculate fairway.

Still before us were visits to more world class malls and hotels. Wafi City Mall sports a huge stained-glass dome depicting Egyptian themes, but with European flavored goodies from Frette, Channel, Missoni and Boss and of course many more. "There’s pride in every building that‘s built here," Sam said, pointing to the intricately carved Egyptian pillars. For a locally authentic purchase, the Arabia Oud shop, with 400 branches worldwide, has a cache of essential oils and a choice of exquisite bottles. Sniffing all the scents gave me a high; finally Sam decided on Dehn Aloud, a very fresh aroma of white musk and jasmine.

The next Mall was Madinat Jumeirah, which succeeded in resembling a modern-day souk. But with Starbucks and KFC outlets, the imagination is somewhat taxed. Outside an Italianate plaza and a manufactured, fish-filled lake offer a welcome respite from the crowds.

My favorite mall was Burjuman, because it seemed to offer an easy direction path instead of a guessing-game. Each mall is so huge that losing one’s way seems to be the norm; the mall plan board are always crowded with lost souls. Burjuman, large as it may be, is the newest and most fashion-forward, mixing culture. Amid men in traditional white or blue dishdash and women wearing their black abayas, there is a two-storey Saks Fifth Avenue.

A five-star rating for hotels is the highest, but the self-proclaimed seven-star Burj Al Arab is magnificent, built on yet another manufactured island. Its interior is not, however, available to every desirous tourist. Unless your name is on the list, the guards do not allow passage over the bridge to the entrance of this incredible edifice—the world's tallest hotel. (I got lucky. When I called, I suggested they Google my name for proof of my status as a travel writer. Within 20 minutes, the return call offered an invitation to a site inspection.) The options are to either stay there, book a table for a sumptuous tea overlooking the sandy beach or have dinner with the best view of the city. The incredible glass and steel, billowing-sail architecture has become the signature image of the city, as much as the opera house is to Sydney.

Inside it appears to be a concoction of Disney World and Las Vegas. The unusual mosaic, the stepped lobby fountains, the gilt columns, the red leather and gold sofas, the tropical fish-filled aquariums--both straddling the escalator but even those features are outdone by the restaurant suspended 200 meters over the Arabian Gulf. As I peered down from the glass elevator, I was stunned to see bikini clad damsels and their mates, frolicking on the hotel’s ecru sandy beach. That too is man-made but the splashing swimmers, both locals and tourists, had happily found their in-city ‘resort’.

Sam exaggerated not a word when he claimed dinner would be a great surprise. On the shores of the Arabian Gulf, The One & Only Royal Mirage is a complex of three distinctly different hotels, each with its own name, set in lush bucolic gardens, the ambience elegant. Much attention to Arabian architectural detailing at the Arabian Court was surpassed only by the meal at the vibrant Nina. The house cocktail, called Simply Nina, contains a mix of gin, lime, mint leaves, ginger, watermelon cubes and sugar syrup—a sweet perfect introduction to our meal. The Indian Tasting Plate arrived with four appetizers, three main dishes and pizzazz of presentation. The two other hotels on the property are The Palace, where bronzed camel sculptures linger in the greenery, the interior equally magical, and the small and discreet 50-room The Resident & Spa--perfect for a romantic assignation.

Before ending the evening, Sam insisted on visiting Grosvenor House’s Buddha Bar, the sophisticated, trendiest, East-meets-West bar and restaurant in Dubai.

It seemed the most appropriate place to say farewell. There, in one place, were all the ingredients that make Dubai the Golden City--expats and locals mixing amicably, obvious affluence, hip clothes, a young social scene in an extraordinary setting. I felt ancient next to these extremely fit, slim, extroverted, gyrating people who seemed to have their lives all tied up in one gilded portfolio.

There was that one regret--not having enough days to discover more of this foreign-flavored city nor the time for some retail therapy, a situation that, in retrospect, would have probably driven me mad with decision-making.

I have plans. I’ll be calling my new friend, the Emirates Ambassador, to take him up on his invitation to Ottawa then we can discuss my new found passion for an equally new passionate driven city…Dubai.

I flew return to Abu Dhabi International, 32km (20 miles) southeast of the city, with Etihad Airways, the Abu Dhabi Government’s national airline. For the rest of the stay, I had a driver fly me down those superlative highways.