Hakone Japan… a precise country

By Barbara Kingstone

High in the mountains of Hakone Japan, there is the unique Hakone Open Air Museum. This is certainly a drawing card for the city’s visitors since the massive landscape if filled with huge sculptures by acclaimed international sculptors. I wouldn’t have missed this permanent exhibition. However, the real reason I had come to this crystal clear air area, was for the hot springs which beckon health-conscious Japanese and in- the- know tourists.

In another era, Japanese feudal lords would travel, spending their nights at inns called Ryokens. Today, the luxury style hotels have all but replaced the traditional inns. When I checked into Okada Hotel and looked around this very large building with its very westernized lobby, I was startled to see booths and counters selling cakes, candies and various Japanese- made clothing items. I soon realized that Okada Hotel is where west meets east. My room was also schizophrenic. In a niche were Western twin beds while off in the wider space on a traditional tatami mat were a low chair, a table prepared with a supply of tea, teacups and a hot water thermos. While I was shown around, there was the offer of choice for sleeping - Japanese style where a futon would be unfolded for me in the evening or the bed. Naturally, I opted for the former. Along with the low furniture, there was a neatly folded kimono and two pairs of slip-ons. The colorful embroidered soft pair, I discovered to my horror too late, was for entering the bathroom. The plastic ones were for wandering throughout the hotel, for the hot spring area and even for daily outdoors activities. . It wasn’t until I was in the lobby to meet up with my travelling group, who had already dressed in their kimonos, that I realized I had made a major faux pas. I was wearing the more colorful foot covering thinking that they coordinated far better with the blue and white kimono. I quickly retreated to my room to change into the other pair.

Next day, mid morning, taking a bug gulp, I headed to the hot spring pools. Rituals are part of Japanese way of life so I wasn’t completely sure of what to expect. Walking down the very long hallway, were men and women sipping tea who smiled widely as I passed. All were dressed in the same mandatory unisex kimonos. It seemed like a different planet- a surrealistic impression of the future. Later, I learned each hotel has their own colored robes.

Once in the hot springs area, I had no idea what to expect except but I observed fast enough that one side was for men (otokoburo), while the other for women (onnaburo), each with their own pools. The locker room was spotless. Racks of baskets were stacked on wire shelving. I watched the other women, neatly folding their clothes and placing them in one of the wicker container before setting it back in its original place. I had been forewarned that the actual bathing rituals needed attention. Carefully, trying not to stare, to be too obvious, I could see what the other women were doing. They were watching me. An attentive attendant handed two towels to me. The larger was for modesty, the other for drying. Only when I entered the tiled swimming pool area did I realize that drying doesn’t mean when you get out of the pool. In this case, one gets prepared before any dunking. Each woman, and soon me, sit before a hose attached to the water tap. The low turned-over bucket becomes the seat while the other is for filling and spilling on top or yourself. Everyone is expected to be well scrubbed before entering the hot spring pool. Fearing that I might make another error, trying to be inconspicuous, I tried to follow the rituals of the others to the nth degree. Even if it wasn’t down pat, the Japanese people are far too polite to have suggested differently. With my towels dropped near my buckets, I refolded them neatly and placed them on top of my pails. Stepping into the pool, in the buff, it was as expected, pleasantly hot. For best results, I was told, it wasn’t wise to stay in for too long. If it hadn’t been as chilly outside, I would have tried the outdoors (rotenburo) pool. Carefully kicking my legs, swinging my arms, I began to feel very Japanese.

Once out of the water, I saw the others wrap their towel around themselves. Obviously, I did likewise, Once back in the locker area, the hairdryers were in heavy using mode while other slathered their bodies with the available lotion, a task, I realized, is the same around the world.

With my kimono and obi tied tightly and the correct plastic slippers back on, I was quite happy to return to my room for a cup of Japanese tea which I knew would be waiting. However, on my way out, I saw three very comfortable looking chairs. Two were occupied, the third would make an interesting perch to observe the activity, rather than rushing to the room. Taking the empty seat, I was stunned when the chair came alive, suddenly starting to vibrate. ‘Fingers’ were going up and down my spine and within nanoseconds someone had brought me a basin filled with warm water so then my feet were soon also vibrating. I became addicted to this marvellous massage as it tightened around my spine then ever so quickly releasing and pulsating up and down. I watched the other two women. One was having a pedicure and foot massage, the other had fallen asleep. After 15 minutes, the vibrations stopped and with regret I relinquished my chair. Very early next morning, thinking I’d beat the crowd, I decided to ‘take’ the waters now that I felt a new confidence about the rituals. What an eye opener it was to find that several women l bopping in the hot spring pool, even at this ridiculous hour. With great aplomb, I did the pre- wash then dunked into the pool for a longer time then the day before. But my mind was on that chair. I didn’t want to miss a seat. Luckily, there was one available and this time I took advantage spending more time with the mechanical masseuse. I left with a feeling of great joy and energy and couldn’t wait to get home to see if the spas in my city had discovered this marvel of all chairs. Oh, and the Okada Hot Spring Hotel was a treat also.

Hotel Okada Tel 0460-5-6000 Fax 0460 5 5774
www.hakone.or.jp/okada/

The Hakone Open Air Museum Tel 0460 2 1321 Fax 0460 2 1169