Shopping experiences in Marrakech, Morocco

By Barbara Kingstone

Who ever said it’s all a matter of price, probably did a lot of haggling in Marrakech’s Djemaa El-Fna and the Souk, Morocco’s enormous market where women are often hidden behind veils and men wear traditional slippers (babouches) and djellabas (long robes).

But there is an alternative to the medina with its crushing crowds, consistent bargaining and tourist-seeking touts who follow you from shop to shop. For a far easier and more pleasurable day of shopping, where the quality of merchandise is excellent, there’s Rue Mohammed V and a few side streets, all in Gueliz, the new city of Marrakech It’s a change from the clanging chaos and massive marketplace. Sure, there is a myriad of traditional handicraft stores in the vicinity but at least, you’re not being harassed at every step. Although there is only a handful of really good stores, they do sell up-market designs, often knock-offs of well-known international designers or perhaps even the real thing at discounted prices.

In Gueliz, you’ll find as you do almost everywhere in Morocco, a sameness of products from pottery, wood objects, djellabas, and certainly rugs, but Gueliz, also has clothes and art items, which will actually fit into your at-home lifestyle. So if you’re hunting for a really fine reproduction of Hermes’ Kelly , the newest Prada or Tod handbag, or superior leather luggage, Galerie Birkemeyer at 165-167 Rue Mohammel El Begal, is the place to start. Rumors has it that the owner has a huge manufacturing and export business and since many of the world’s top designers have their leatherwear and clothing manufactured in around Marrakech, you might just be getting the real thing but without the label. Either way, you can’t make a mistake at Birkemeyer.

Since I’ve been to Marrakech several times, I have favorite stops. French born designer Frederique Birkemeyer, who owned the above mentions leather store, opened a two floor boutique, Intensite Nomade, 139 Blve. Mohammed V, 12 years ago. The day I was there, boxes of designer labeled sweaters had just been delivered. The prices where at least 60% less than they would be in America and the designs were all from the current season. Since suede and leather are a major industry in Morocco, Frederique’s own designs are sure winners. The same is true for Birkemeyer’s pants, jackets and coats. An example,at Intensite Nomade, you’ll find the fringed suede shawl that costs the earth at Hermes for a tenth of the price.

Across the street is Place Vendome, 141 Rue Mohammed V. The competition between these two stores is very obvious. The sales staff is helpful but also curious to know if I’ve shopped “somewhere else.” Again the leather items a la Calvin Klein and Prada, are a great investment. Also the faux croc golf bogs, the men’s leather jackets women’s suede dresses and coats are eye catchers. A man’s outerwear butter-soft suede jacket is simple and elegantly tailored. Also check out their luggage. Although I’ve always been successful at Cleopatre, the shoe store just across the street, this time I was sorely disappointed. It could be that I was there just as the season changed. It’s still worth trying your luck. Still, the best for footwear is at Atika, 34 rue de la Liberte, just around the corner, where there are marvelous knockoffs of Prada, Chanel and Tod for under $100. They’ve recently opened another boutique on 212 Rue de Mohammed V, a 5-minute walk, where there is a splendid selection of sweaters, skirts wearable ensembles and of course, shoes and boots. At 122 Rue Mohammed V, Armel, was dead on with their coloration and styling of boots and shoes. The designs and quality for both men and women were truly as terrific as were the prices.

Clearly, clothing is not the only items made to be bought in this area. At La Perle du Sud, 123 Derb Aarjane Rahba Lakdima, the selection of Berber and African art and antiques are wonderful. In fact, if the very old marble menorah hadn’t been so heavy, I would have packed it into my newly purchased carry-on. Ancient hand painted doors and old jewellery, sit among great furniture and important old textiles. There’s also, the well-known shop, Amazonite, where prices are as high as the quality of their jewellery. These are collectibles and don’t come cheap. But rest assured they’d cost much more at home, if you could find them, and Amazonite has a five star reputation. Don’t leave the area without visiting the flower and food souk across from Place Vendome. The color, the aroma, the bustle is on a much smaller scale than the Djemaa El-Fha is so much more manageable. And the prices for the same items are considerably less. I you’re willing to take a 5 minute taxi ride, about $l, to Hotel La Mamounia which you should see anyway just for the lobby’s incredible Art Deco design, on this oasis of beauty is a boutique with bold, colorful and unique jewellery designed by Micheline Perrin. Perrin is often in the shop and this French born creator is as charismatic as her jewellery. But beware, these bold, semi precious stone designs are not for the meek of heart.