Quebec City’s Auberge Saint-Antoine is where European charm meets North American efficiency.

by Barbara Kingstone

Away from the razzamatazz of glamour puss Montreal and her plethora of smart, small luxury hotels is Quebec City’s Auberge Saint-Antoine where modern meets old charm and amenities are stellar in a city that is a World Heritage treasure.

Last October, forty something Llewellyn Price, sister Lucy and mother Muffy, opened what could easily be one of Canada’s most perfect small privately owned boutique hotels which integrated three historic buildings from the 18th and 19th century in the heart of the most historically rich area in Canada.

The Price family renowned in Quebec City as descendants of the founders of Abitibi Price and then Abitibi-Consolidated, the largest newsprint manufacturer in the world, know location well and chose a property dating back to the 1700s. By 1820 it was an old warehouse and indeed, the area, in the port of the old town became quite run-down. But flash forward to today and this chic ‘urban inn’ is attracting Americans and even locals (60% are from Quebec) with their successful design and renovation in an area that is in the midst of an explosion of lofts, smart eateries plus a view of the St. Lawrence River.

From the very beginning, Auberge Saint-Antoine was a destination for travellers with its own penchant for history and sophistication, rather than just a place to sleep. There is one thing all the rooms have in common, they have character.

Originally, the Auberge had 31 rooms, then the building merged with two 18th and 19th century buildings and now completed, it has 83 rooms and 12 suites spanning three centuries from 1690 –1991. The façade is from 1850 and was kept in tact.

Outside, the grey cobblestone road has inlaid brownish stone forming three wave designs which indicates where the original short line was. The land-fill from the 1600s to the 1800s, is the site of Auberge and considered a major archeological site.

Although $16 million may seem like a lot of dough for renovation, the attention to detail makes the cost seem like a pittance. With the help of a New York based design firm including, Philip Cozzi and his wife Kristin Hein and Quebec interior designer Monqiue Amyot, the team, as Price calls them, fused their ideas from the small larch wood squares for flooring and grey slate to the 400 priceless relics found while digging. These are now prominently and tastefully displayed in vitrines throughout the hotel. This touch of artifacts, the brain-child of set designer Daniel Castonguay, is even highlighted on each room door and also set into the night tables.

While excavating, one of the other discoveries was 700 year old oak wood incorporated into the reception and concierge desks. This dark rich looking wood became the guiding colour for the rest of the hotel which is used in most of the rooms. Red however, is the theme. “It’s my mother’s favourite colour,” says Price. Mrs. Price had major input into the décor.

The lobby is an indicator of the look. Red painted tree trunk tables are glass topped, red crested velvet wing back chairs are juxtaposed to Phillips Starck’s clear plastic Louis Ghost chairs. This mixture is perfect in the barrel vaulted lobby dining room as are the hallways. The unique red lettering-with the alphabet going upside down and sideways (much like reading a doctor’s eye chart) on beige, trims the grey middle section of the corridor carpeting. Price is very observant and very savvy. He runs the hotel “like a small business”. “Modern design cuts out a section of the people. But mixing the antique with contemporary appeals to everyone, “ he says.

And he knows his clientele. They’re all types, he tell me, but in my mind, I’m thinking affluent. This style and service doesn’t come cheap. And discretion is always important for a good hotelier.

Although there isn’t a mention of names, with all the movies and TV productions being shot in Quebec City, these digs would certainly appeal to actors, ‘vedettes’ and politicians.
Each of the six floors is dedicated to a different period with small lit cases filled with ‘objets’ and named after men who made a difference and an unique opportunity which provides a fascinating glimpse into Quebec’s first inhabitants.

For instance, next to the antiquities which are displayed, is an explanation. The first floor is dedicated to Charles Aubert de La Chesnay (1632-1702), a company agent and Conseil Souverain. The King’s architect, Jean Maillou (1668 –1753) is noted on the 2nd floor while the 3rd is devoted to Hugh Finlay (1730-1801), a deputy postmaster general and politician. On the 4th, merchant John Chillas (1755-1825), the 5th features sail maker and trader James Hung (1779-1847) and the 6th, Andre Eusebe Vallerand (1848-1914).

The oldest section of the hotel is the antithesis of the eclectic lobby. Room #322 with an inside staircase, has original raw wood beams, quilt bed covering, old styled footed tub. Meanwhile in #601, there’s a two way glass fireplace, arched windows, stacked plastic tables and chic silk headboard and matching drapes.

My room, #516 was positioned perfectly. While I lay in bed, I could see the majestic Chateau Frontenac. For a better view of this overwhelmingly large edifice which overlooks the entire city, there is the patio with potted plants and red wood table and chairs.

Lighting in most hotels seems to be an afterthought. However, here the contemporary floor lamps, the beside lighting fixtures, the wonderfully original set-in small, floor pot lights are examples of good planning and research into new technologies.

Most unusal is the glassed-in extra large bath and a “rain” shower-head outside the tub that never floods the floor as the water comes down and runs directly into the drain. Molded white porcelain counter top sink and the brick shaped ceramic wall tiling (reminiscent of the Paris Metro), is completed with a ecologically friendly toilet from Japan.

How often can I recall sitting on the floor in a closet trying to read the safety box instructions. It may seem a small matter, but even these are well thought out and placed in a waist high drawer.

The luxury linens and down-filled duvets and pillows, Bose sound system, high speed internet, two phones, heated bathroom floors, no0fog mirrors and great work space, just completes the ambience.

Auberge Saint-Antoine
8 Rue Saint-Antoine
Tel 418 692 2211 / 188 692 2211

Room rates start at $200 mid season to $329. Peak season $279 to $499. Parking is $18/day.
I took Via Rail which gave me and my husband a rare opportunity to read several newspapers, eat well-served and fine food.

THINGS TO DO
The limestone wall of the Musee de Civilization faces the front entrance of the Auberge It’s a museum with history from the past, present and future.
85 rue Dalhousie Tel 418 643 2158

For those who yearn for the old charming and tranquil libraries, The English Literary and Historical Society of Quebec has over 50,000 books, nocomputers in sight but the old cataloguing system, original wood shelving, floors and staircase. It’s located in the historic Morrin College building, once a jail, in Old Quebec City.
44 Chaussee des Ecossais

Only 10 minutes, 13 kilometres from the hotel, over the bridge, is Ile d’Orleans, “the flower floating on the St. Lawrence”. Noted for its produce, this bucolic agricultural area is home to the mayor of Quebec City, Jean Paul L’Allier and to Llewellyn Price. There are no fast-food outlets on this island of 7,000. It also boasts the oldest golf course in North America (1863) even though it originally had 3 holes. Now there 9 holes.

Sainte Petronille is the main village among 6. Although known for the sweet strawberries, apples come a close second with apple by-products. Bilodeau Cidrerie with over 3000 apple trees on 6 acres, allows guest to have tastings of the variety of ciders, jellies, syrups, butter, juice and vinegar. New is their café with shiny hand painted floral floors and Parisian like table and chairs.

Another island attraction for those with a sweet tooth is Chocolaterie where cases are filled with praline, noisettes du midi and fruit dipped in dark chocolate, just to name a few and all with no chemical preservatives. Waiting in line is just part of the charmand an opportunity to meet the locals. In their wisdom, the owners have opened a small attached café with creamy ice cream and mouth-watering patsies.

WHERE TO EAT
I never go to Quebec city without a reservation at Initiale, a gastronomic delight located in an old renovated bank. By a quirk of fate, it’s just a few steps from the side entrance of Auberge Saint-Antoine. One the menu is steak and lamb from Quebec, veal from Charlevoix and Risotto with morels from the Yukon. It may sound like a Canadian-only menu but chef Yvan Lebrun adds amazing sauces and great seasoned vegetables. Lebrun has also includes suggestions for the perfect wine.

54 Rue St. Pierre. Tel 418 694 1818

Le Café du la Monde is the closet to a French bistro. The crowds of people who come for Sunday brunch and during the week for lunch and dinner are many French speaking. And on a sunny day, there’s nothing quite like sitting on the terrace watching the boats on the St. Lawrence.